Gamblers

Gamblers

A gamblers course tests a dog/handler team's ability to work together at a distance. The equipment is set up in a random order, including a defined gamble area. Handlers may choose the path they would like to run in their opening sequence, the goal being to accumulate as many points as possible in the allotted time - before the whistle blows. Announced in the briefing is the time allowed to accumulate points in the opening. The obstacles are assigned a point value in one of two systems. 1-2-3-5 or 1-3-5-7. If you multiply the highest point value (5 or 7) times the first number in the opening time you are given, then you will have the amount of points necessary in the opening for a qualifying gamble score, assuming the gamble is also completed correctly and in time.

A whistle blows announcing the end of the opening when the team may proceed to the gamble area. Without stepping on or over the handlers line (usually plastic "tape" laid upon the ground) the dog is directed through the obstacles as designated in the gamble. The amount of time allowed for the dog to complete the gamble portion is also announced in the briefing.

A major strategy in gamblers is to determine the place a team will be on course during the opening when the whistle blows so that they can proceed to the gamble area with little added time to their total and be in the perfect position from which to perform the gamble itself.

This is a good class for beginners to enter. You can choose the obstacles and the path you would like to do. If you don't feel prepared to do the gamble just run to the table. That stops the clock. The dog with the highest amount of points in the time allotted wins.

If you arrive at the gamble line and your dog doesn't move out, don't be afraid to help your dog. Run out and show the dog what it is you want it to do then run to the table stopping the clock. Standing at the line, flapping your arms, and yelling doesn't help the dog understand, it only confuses the dog further.

What you need to do is plan your gamble handling as you would any other agility sequence. Use your body language to help direct the dog where you would like it to go. You may back up then move forward again at some point. You don't have to find yourself "stuck" at the gamble line unless you didn't plan well.

USDAA Gamblers Overview
By Joe Sare

First of all, in Gamblers, it is important to listen to (or read) the judges briefing. Judges have some discretion on what will or will not be allowed. For instance, the judge can decide whether or not obstacles may be taken back to back.

There are two point systems used in USDAA

1-3-5-7 is similar to NADAC. The goesovers (jumps) are 1, the goesintas (tunnels, chute, tire, and short set of weaves) are 3. The goesontas (contacts and full set of weaves) are 5 points. The judge can also add points to a single obstacle or combination of obstacles that are placed in a difficult location, or have some other special performance criteria (such as an on course gamble). This can result in a 7 point obstacle.
There's also a 1-2-3-5 system. In this system, the goesovers are 1, the goesintas are 2, the goesontas are 3, and a bonus pointed obstacle can be worth up to 5 points.

The number of points needed for a qualifying score is based on the opening time, and point system used. The opening time can be 30, 40, or 50 seconds. To determine the points needed in the opening period, take the highest point value for the system being used (7 for 1-3-5-7 or 5 for 1-2-3-5). Multiply that by the first digit from the opening time (3, 4, or 5). The result is the number of opening period points needed to qualify. Of course the gamble must also be completed successfully, and in time to qualify.

The judge will specify the point system, what obstacle (if any) has bonus scoring, and any other performance criteria in their briefing.

Tips and Hints

The best way to prepare for the Gamblers class during the walkthrough is to find a smooth flowing path to perform during the opening. Ideally, this "course" that you create will end near the start of the gamble.
It is often easier to work backwards from the start of the Gamble when designing your path.
Always keep your dog's strengths and weaknesses in mind when planning your path.
Try to avoid reversing direction, or performing obstacles back to back. It takes longer for the dog to stop and then get back to speed again than it does to continue running in a forward direction.
Try to avoid being "caught" on the opposite side of the course when the gamble whistle blows. Plan your run so that you do the obstacles farthest from the gamble early in the run.
In this game, momentum is everything. Ideally, you want your dog traveling at full speed just finishing the obstacle in front of the gamble when the whistle blows. To get that requires the ability to estimate the course that your dog can complete during the opening. One way to do this is to plan your opening sequence so that it consists of only jumps, tunnels, and tire. You should know how long it takes your dog to complete a 16 to 20 obstacle jumpers course from Jumpers classes you've run. This works because most dogs even less experienced ones will have fairly consistent speeds when doing these obstacles. On the other hand, most dogs especially less experienced ones tend to have widely varying performance times on the contact obstacles and weave poles.
Try to find a jump, tire, or tunnel near the start of the gamble that you can use to legally "loiter" near the start of the gamble in case you get there before the whistle blows.
Try to avoid getting stuck on the line. We've all seen handlers with their toes at the line leaning over the line trying desperately to get their dog to continue on even though they aren't moving. To avoid this, try to have your dog working ahead of you already as you send them into the gamble. This may mean that you need to moderate your speed as you approach the gamble. Also, take advantage of the dog's time in tunnels to take a few steps back from the line while they can't see you. Management of that five to ten feet of space in front of the gamble line is the key to being a good gamble handler with the ability to push your dog out for the further parts of the gamble.
If there is an obstacle anywhere near the gamble line, stay as far away from it as possible while your dog is performing the gamble. Nothing is as guaranteed to bring your dog screaming towards as for you to be standing next to a jump or chute. You should also avoid having a jump between you and the dog.